Physical
brief GUY LAB
Photography: Alexander Courtman (@alexandercourtman)
Grooming: Sabrina Reuschl (@sabrina.reuschl)
Model: Mark Strikes (@markstrikes) @Spin Model Managemant (@spinmodelmanagement)
Napoli Napoli Napoli
Napoli Napoli Napoli
Book launch and photography exhibition of Brett Lloyd’s love letter to Naples
As one of the most quoted contemporary names in fashion publications, British photographer Brett Lloyd never ceased to express his fondness for Naples in his photography. He compiles his affection for Naples in his new book “Napoli Napoli Napoli“.
Born in the north of England, Lloyd spends most of his time in Italy, particularly in Naples, a city he fell in love with and has been visiting regularly for twelve years. It is to this city that Lloyd dedicates the book, which recounts ‘a day in Naples’, an excursion from dawn to dusk that meditates on classicism, the cathartic power of the sea and the unique influence of the ancient landscape.
Coinciding with the book launch, Lloyd held an exhibition in Paris during ‘Paris Photo’ – Paris’ answer to photography week on November 10th, 2022. Another exhibition will take place in Spazio Maiocchi in Milan on November 17th from 9 am to 5 pm (according to the space’s opening hours). Lloyd will also be launching specially designed t-shirts to promote local businesses, 100% of the proceeds of which will go to support the non-profit organisation ‘Friends of Naples’ for the restoration of the city’s historic structures. The t-shirts will be made by the Naples design team Vienmnsuonno1926.
To understand the backstory of the book and his creativity, CAP 74024 invited Berlin-based PR office Reference Studios to have a talk with Brett Lloyd, which Lloyd talked about his discoveries, experiences, creativity and ties to his beloved Naples.
Why napoli? Or better, how did you discover napoli and what brought you there for the first time?
It was 12 years ago, on my way to visit a friend who lived in Sorrento. I arrived late into the city and missed my last connecting train to the Amalfi coast so I was stuck in this city I had not been to before. I wandered into the historical center through Porta Nolana. Discovering the city for the first time at night. It was very impactful. The infrequent yellow lights brought shapes out of the walls and alleyways, it was a dream. I had left by mistake my passport in Rome so no hotel would accept me as a guest that night but I was more than. I was happy to spend my first night in Naples walking around exploring until the following morning, after that night I was hooked for a lifetime.
Which reasons made you go back there so often for so long?
The list is endless, I think the chief reason could be the calm I feel being surrounded by the chaotic beach life in Naples. In a great crowd and bustle I feel tranquil and solitary than on other occasions and really manage to relax. You have the ocean, the volcano, the roman ruins, the vistas. You need only to walk along the foreshore, and keep the eyes wide open, to see the most unequaled scenes. I have been going for 12 years now and you would expect some sense of complacency but there is none. Each day I see something so remarkable I think it’s impossible to see more. Always something new, some fresh absurdity.
As pretty much all southern italy, napoli can be very warm and welcoming but also exactly the opposite; what was your experience in this sense?
It’s for this reason that it is magic. It reminds me a lot of my upbringing in a working class town in Yorkshire, a poor town with great warmth but a lot of worry, a great amount of cares and concerns. My book is only a slice of Neapolitan life. I focus on life by the water, the beaches and the time in Most people’s day when they can relax and unwind. The cathartic power of the sea. Naples has far too long been documented only on the harsher realities that exist there, and although. Yes it’s a part of the culture since it’s a relatively poor city, it should not be the only vision that’s presented to the world. I hope my book can shift some of those preconceptions.
What are the main changes you saw in the city throughout the past 12 years?
Not much thank goodness, it is not a city that changes, hallelujah. One great thing is the money spent in the city recently on the restoration of the cultural landmarks in preserving them. Restoring the damaged churches and historical landmarks for future generations to enjoy. I have collaborated with one of the charities in the city “Friends of Naples” who do just that, I have made four t shirts that Celebrate four of my favorite businesses, all proceeds of the sales go to the charity.
How did Napoli impact your artistic production?
The book was photographed over four summers, starting in 2018. It was refreshing to take my time, great to work on a project that would be ready when it’s ready. Coming from the fashion photography industry we are used to tight deadlines. This was the opposite. Pasquale Nappi became my muse who I would shoot each Summer, we would work on images together, some spontaneous as we were having a day on the rocks whilst others such as with the golden face portrait we would plan in advance. My limited Neapolitan meant that a lot of the portraits were achieved with little to no dialogue between us, so the beauty in those shots for me are the peoples own creative input, their instinctive posing and glances at the camera. Full of soul. I am an obsessive of archaeology and ancient history, I’m in my element along the bay of Naples. From the ancient baths at Baia, along Posillipo to Pompei and even Paestum, it was a joy to learn and develop my technique of landscapes and still life, just me, my Rolleifelx and the ancient Roman and ~Greek fragments of those civilisations.
Paris Nude
P A R I S N U D E
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
“I am as prepared as I like to be. I have my subject, her trust, a location and an idea. The rest will be left to our chemistry and the moment.” – Mary McCartney
First published as a book in 2019 by HENI, Paris Nude is an intimate study of the female nude by British photographer Mary McCartney. Over the course of two days in the summer of 2016, McCartney stayed with her subject – Paris-based American-born Taiwanese writer, stand-up comedian and fashion collaborator Phyllis Wang at her Saint Germain apartment in Paris, photographing Wang in the nude to produce an extraordinary and intimate series of images.
The exhibition is on The Little Black Gallery’s online art platform GIRLS! GIRLS! GIRLS!, celebrating the female form, from 1 November – 31 December at www.girlsgirlsgirls.org
The delicate photographs showcase the intimacy and trust required from both subject and photographer. Over the course of their time together, we see the model increasingly relax in front of the camera as she assumes various poses, and an unspoken bond between the two gradually develops.
Mary McCartney focuses on discovering those rare moments of unguarded intimacy that offer new insights into her photographic subjects. Her work in portraiture and candid reportage photography is suffused with a deep personal investment that captures the creative chemistry between photographer and subject.
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
Paris Nude by Mary McCartney
PARIS NUDE by Mary McCartney is on The Little Black Gallery’s online art platform GIRLS! GIRLS! GIRLS!, celebrating the female form, from 1 November – 31 December at www.girlsgirlsgirls.org
Look at You by Leo Luchini
As the son of acclaimed German film director Rolf Liccini, music artist Leo Luchini approaches his craft through character work based on acting techniques, combining songwriting with performative storytelling so as to pick apart the perils of life in his own international charm.
‘Look At You’ is Luchini’s 3rd self-produced and co-directed music video following his acclaimed ‘Bubblegum Creep’ in 2016. This also comes on the heels of his opportunity to remix the legendary Tricky earlier this year on iK7. He’s also been featured on line ups with Cakes Da Killa, and producing with Nasty King Kurl and Brava Blings in the late.
© David Mesa
Starting out his music career in London in the Peckham rap scene, Leo Luchini is now programmer of Berlin’s Trauma Bar und Kino, as well as an actor. His signature moody and multifaceted production create the foundation underneath his classic melancholic melodies and ever-evolving lyrical deliveries.
CAP 74024 is pleased to invite Leo for a talk, sharing his inspiration, creativity and growth during the making of ‘Look at You’. From composing, to remixing and further to filming the music video, this black comedy-esque performance is a masterpiece styled to match the dense clash of distorted metal guitar and slick trap syncopation: a filmic fantasy where deathly spectres are counterbalanced with the vastness of an angelic infinite afterlife.
1. Where did your inspiration come from for your new track ‘Look At You’ in terms of the lyrics and direction of the video?
With this track and video I wanted to build a framework that could encompass a range of inspirations for me. From the lyrical standpoint I wanted to further develop my lyrical themes of existentialism and equilibrium and reflect that on screen through concepts of limbo and the afterlife [I was reading Sartre’s ‘No Exit’ at the time]. From a performance aspect, I’ve been hungry to act and perform more – so I developed a character for myself that was a subconscious being with a body language based between exhaustion and exorcism.
Honestly, what fuelled this project most was my frustration with what I felt was becoming lukewarm standards. I had been through a lot this year and I needed the release to shed old skin and free myself again through a performance with urgency. So my main inspiration was this hype-denier energy – this bluff-caller energy – a call for real connection that is un-swipe-away-able – a wake up call for looking at oneself at was has become, as one does in any therapy. It’s a battle with ourselves first and foremost. The song and video are really about this romantic die-hard commitment.
2. What was your favourite part about recording the video?
My favorite part was working on this character behind the lyrics, which is already inside me, and connecting the voice in front of the mic to the person in front of the camera. So much can be found on this level. I dug deep in preparation with Meisner technique workshops to embrace meaningful moments, body language exercises and psyching myself up through revisiting intense memories. It was extremely therapeutic for me.
3. Did you learn anything about your artistry while putting together ‘Look At You’?
I learned the ironic reward of discomfort. This commitment itself to perform the story whatever it takes. Shooting 12 hours straight in the cold rain, literally lying on the floor and throwing my body around, wearing contacts lenses that itch like crazy (nearly couldn’t get them out), wearing fake blood on my skin all day, doing my own stunts – then sleeping 3 hours and walking to the basketball court with my angel wings, my acoustic guitar and a ladder to shoot the end shot sitting on a freezing metallic hoop 4-meters high at 5am golden hour was hardcore. It’s a reminder that if it’s not a little uncomfortable, its probably not worth doing.
© David Mesa
© David Mesa
4. You recently remixed Tricky, how did this collaboration come about?
I hosted Tricky at Trauma Bar und Kino last December for the premiere of his directorial debut “Lonely Guest”. We got along like a house on fire and a few weeks later his team hit me up about being part of the remix release for the album of the same name. I was so gassed – I had to pinch myself. I chose the Rina Mushonga track ‘Pipe Dreams’ because her vocals are such a raw expression on it and the lyrics really hit home for me at the time. I must’ve made like 10 versions…. Was definitely an honour to be part of it and also alongside artists like Space Afrika also.
5. Can you tell us a little bit about your work as programmer and music curator of Berlin’s Trauma Bar und Kino?
In my role there working on the music programme, I definitely take from my past experience working in venues like the ICA and Bold Tendencies in London but also take a lot from being an artist myself. With this, I try to lead with a collaborative spirit, behaving more like a project-space for immersive, site-specific and cross-disciplinary performing arts, not just a music venue. Luckily we are a well-equipped hybrid space with an incredible team of individuals who equally seek the beyond together with me.
6. Do you have anything coming up you want to tell us about?
You can expect a remix compilation of ‘Look At You’ out in December 2nd featuring several producers to raise charity donations for the situation in Iran.
© David Mesa
© David Mesa
‘Look At You’ by Leo Luchini will be self-released on Oct 27th, 2022. Follow his artistic trajectory via his Spotify.
Dazed
corset LUCINDA BABI, pants BERSHKA, boots vintage DOLCE & GABBANA
dress MISS SELFRIDGE, denim UNIQLO, heels BILLINI
dress VAN DER KOOIJ, gloves COLLUSION
coat archive LUCINDA BABI, socks NIKE, loafers ASOS
Photography: Jessica Garcia (@jessicaanngarcia)
Styling & Art Direction: Jam Baylon (@_jam______)
Hair & Make-up: Natalie Ridler (@natridler)
Model: Tarra Black (@tarrablack)
suit LUCINDA BABI, blazer COLLUSION
Warsaw Flashnite
Warsaw Flashnite
Photography & Styling | Ewa Michalik
dress BIMBA Y LOLA, jacket & belt bag MIMIKA, sunglasses Versace, earrings GROOVY, shoes TAMARIS
dress CHIARA FERRAGNI, jacket MIMIKA, chains HOLI STORE, sunglasses ADIDAS, bag FURLA, tights GABRIELLA, shoes CATWALK
top LOCAL HEROES, trousers KARL KANI, jacket MIMIKA, earrings NINO SEPO, sunglasses ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, bag REJINA PYO, socks FIORE, shoes UNITED NUDE
shirt HUGO BOSS, vest BIENKOVSKA, trousers BY MALENE BIRGER, jacket MIMIKA, hat vintage, earrings JIGSAW, sunglasses GUCCI, bag REJINA PYO, socks FIORE, shoes TAMARIS
(left) dress KARL LAGERFELD, earrings & rings GROOVY, sunglasses GUCCI, necklace HOLI STORE (right) turtleneck BIMBA Y LOLA, trousers PLUM THE LABEL, jacket MIMIKA, sunglasses FIELMANN, earrings HOLI STORE, ring GROOVY, shoes CATWALK
Photography & Styling: Ewa Michalik (@by_michalik) (@ewamichalikcom)
Make-up: Anna Piechocka (@by_catnel)
Model: Gabriela Mach (@machgabi)
Neue Mexico
(Left) leather top SANCHEZ-KANE (Right) shirt & trousers THE PACK, boots CALVIN KLEIN
shirt LEMAIRE,blazer BALENCIAGA
denim pants SANCHEZ-KANE, necklace VAQUERA
top RICK OWENS, jacket & trousers THE PACK, earrings VARON
corset SANCHEZ-KANE
knit vest RAF SIMONS, trousers THE PACK, leather clogs BIRKENSTOCK
leather coat THE PACK, trousers BALENCIAGA
(Left) corset SANCHEZ-KANE, trousers WILLY CHAVARRIA, belt VETEMENTS, boots CALVIN KLEIN (Right) leather shirt STUDIO NICHOLSON
Photographer: Eric White (@nicecleanwhite)
Stylist: Daniel Abbott (@danielabbottnyc)
Model: Abel (@sg.abel)
Myself, I
coat & pants LAURA GALATI, earpiece ABILLIONTH
top & trousers LAURA GALATI, earrings FRANCESCA JEWELLERY
coat VIKTORIA & WOOD
sweater COS, top LAURA GALATI, trousers AMI PARIS, shoes YUME YUME
blazer & trousers LAURA GALATI, vest COS, ring FAIRLEY
dress AJE, shoes PRADA
blazer & trousers LAURA GALATI, wearable artefact LAURA BANFIELD, ring FAIRLEY
Photography: Jess Brohier (@jessbrohier)
Styling: Lydia Vingos (@s.vingo)
Art Direction: Jess Brohier, Sarah Forgie
Set Design: Sarah Forgie (@sarahforgiephoto)
Hair & Make-up: Jordan Hallewell (@jordan.hallewell)
Production & Studio: Alt-House (@alt___house)
Photo Assistant: Matt Stott, Ruby Jean
Muse: Amelia (@ameliaqi)
top LAURA GALATI, skirt COS, earring FRANCESCA JEWELLERY, shoes HELIOT EMIL
That Boy
pants DUNHILL
shirt COMME DES GARÇONS, pants DRIES VAN NOTEN, leather cuff CHARLIE BY MATTHEW ZINK
coat & boots LOUIS VUITTON
shirt & suit ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
shirt FENDI
shirt & belt (worn as choker) BOTTEGA VENETA
jockstrap CHARLIE BY MATTHEW ZINK
jacket & pants NIHL, underwear CDLP, socks FALKE
harness CHARLIE BY MATTHEW ZINK
Photography: Matthew Tyler Priestley (@matthewtylerpriestley)
Fashion: Michael Cook (@mjcook419)
Casting: Chad Thompson (@communa_k)
Grooming: Michael Chua (@michaelchuabeauty)
Photo Assistant: Charlie Solis (@thecharliesolis)
Fashion Assistant: Myles Colbert (@myles.colbert)
Model: Raphael Diogo (@_raphaaaa)
Leather pieces special thanks to The Leather Man NYC
jacket DUCKIE BROWN, jockstrap CHARLIE BY MATTHEW ZINK, socks FALKE, shoes BALENCIAGA