A Midsummer's Afternoon
Photography: Giordano Nagro (@giordanonagro)
Model: Alessandra Rizzo (@rizzoalessandra)
Masculinity in Nudity - "Nudes", a photo book by Richard Kranzin
Tainting the familiar, conventional meaning of masculinity, Richard Kranzin subjects the term under his authority, twisting the established theories of how men should act and look to the benefit of the modern lifestyle. Under his direction, he infuses fragility into the cornerstones of masculinity, a testament to his compendium “Nudes”.
Rippling through the pages of his photo book, men display their virtue, virility, and vulnerability to the Berlin-based photographer. They distance themselves from how social media depicts them: Greek Gods who need to sustain their muscular, toned bodies, and nothing less than that. As Richard photographs nude men, he brews up new wisdom over masculinity: men as soft and non-sexualized beings with nudity as the highest form of intimacy.
Why did you want to explore the fragility of the masculine?
I think it comes from my childhood when my father told me to act more “masculine.” Being more sensitive or “feminine” as a young boy seemed to be something I should be ashamed of. Sadly, a lot of men can relate to that. Growing up and coming out as gay, I did not hide my vulnerable side; I felt free. Today’s perception of masculinity is changing in cultures around the world. Being masculine is becoming a very fragile statement itself and is seen from many more perspectives nowadays and showing that in my work can help to spread a new perception of masculinity even further.
How do you perceive fragility? What relationship does it have with masculinity?
When I talk about fragility in relation to masculinity, I mean the common stereotypical thinking of what masculinity is and what happens when you do not act that way. When you look closely at the young men I photographed, you might see through their stereotyped, hard masculine shell and into their vulnerable souls. The stereotyped masculine façade becomes fragile when the models are nude and bare in front of my lens. They show themselves honestly and not disguised by outside influences.
How has the perception of masculinity changed over the years through your photographs?
When I started taking photos, I was inspired by commercialized fashion photography. I was a model myself, so I knew what the industry expected from male models and how they should look like in photos. In the 2010s their manhood and “masculinity” were viewed to resemble that of classical Greek Gods. I was always much more of an androgynous model and had the opportunity to show much more diversity and emotions in my poses than other male models. These influenced the way I started to shoot with my model friends who were not androgynous in the first place.
Having a form like a Greek sculpture does not tell a story itself. I wanted to look into the souls of the people, and I still do. While my models mostly have these classical beauty face with “masculine” model features, I always try to capture them as authentic, pure, and soulful as possible to make the difference.
Was the use of analog black and white photography in your compendium intentional? Why?
Black and white imagery gives a sense of timelessness. I love the melancholic and nostalgic air that surrounds it. In terms of creating soulful and pure images, black and white pictures help put the focus on the subject. NUDES is shot in analog black and white film intentionally. The analog image offers unpredictability and rawness and using it gives me a great feeling, so I use it in every shoot now. It separates itself from the digitalized fast world we live in.
You mentioned that your models are cut off from their commercialized self-representations on social media, from their digital identities. What discoveries did you find out about their self-representations in reality versus on social media through photography?
It was so interesting to meet my models for the first time. I only knew them from social media, so all I saw was how they presented themselves and how they wanted to be perceived. Talking with and getting personal with them in a short amount of time opened us up. Also, the nudity benefits an open conversation that I have with most of my models during a shooting. It lets me see into their souls, something that social media can never do. I hope my photos can capture the intimacy and trust that are built in these short moments last long.
As you describe your photobook: My pictures invite you to dream of masculinity without sin, honest and authentically sensuous. Why did you say, “without sin”? Is it sinful to dream of masculinity?
Masculinity can be full of sins when the world talks about toxic masculinity, abuse, roughness, sexism, and crime in general. In NUDES, I want to create a dream bubble in which men do none of these things, a reason my book is bright, with few contrasts, and feels very airy. I tried to show masculinity as a soft, non-sexualized statement – without sin, so to speak.
During the shoot, you decided which position, posture, look, and mood the finished picture and models should convey, thus evoking rawness and intimacy. How did you establish your relationship with your subjects?
As I mentioned earlier, it deals with a lot of speaking with and explaining my project to them. During the shooting, I kind of let the models go with the flow. Not all of the poses are instructed; I let them move, and I adjust my photos around the mood. What I did was I gave them a mood or feeling, even putting on some ambient music to get them into a melancholic mood. I see myself more as a director, encouraging the actor in a certain situation to take on spontaneity.
Speaking of intimacy, how do you perceive and define nudity? In what way does it relate to non-intimacy?
Nudity is the highest form of intimacy to me. I do not like it when it becomes non-intimate and only focused on showcasing oneself. Being nude on photographs should always come with an intimate and personal feeling to it.
After this project, what is next for Richard? Are you planning to continue with the project?
Thinking about the future gives me a lot of pressure. My inspiration always comes from a kind of nostalgia that honors the past. My posts on Instagram are mostly images from previous years. I love going through my archives instead of chasing trending photos for the likes. It drives most of my models crazy to wait for so long before I post, but that is just how I work.
I am still taking a lot of new photos, but I am not thinking about a future project yet. It might be next year; it might be in five years. What I do is I look at a body of work from the last few years and then figure out how I can present it as a cohesive collection. This is how my books BOYS IN NATURE and NUDES developed. In both cases, I realized that this could become a publication, two years after having already shot them.
One long-term project I am working on is my first feature film as a director, but writing a script is not that easy. To let you in on the development, adolescence, fragile masculinity, dreamy nostalgia, and intimate emotion will always be a part of my work.
Text & Interview by Matthew Burgos
Edit by Yves Tsou
Neo Everything
collar LEEY, shirt JW ANDERSON
total look COMME des GARÇONS
top GANNI, shorts PERSONAL PARADE, shoes CONVERSE
sweater STELLA McCARTNEY, gloves VALENTINO
total look ZARA
total look ALEJANDRA ALONSO ROJAS
total look vintage ISSEY MIYAKE
Photographer: Tarik Atallah (@tarikatallah)
Art Director: Yanran Xiong (@pistachica)
Stylist: Wojciech Christopher Nowak (@wojciechchristophernowak)
Stylist’s Assistant: Annette Gaitan (@annetworth)
Model: Alay (@alayy.y)
Malibu Creek, 2021
NYC cap PRAYING, t-shirt JUAN MANUEL SALCITO STUDIO
shorts SAD YOUTH
jersey SENTIMIENTO
dress SENTIMIENTO
Photography: Juan Manuel Salcito (@juanmsalcito)
Styling: César Álvarez (@triste_juventud)
Creative Direction: Juan Manuel Salcito, César Álvarez
Model: Tyler Omeed Mazaheri (@tylermazaheri)
Night Out
Night Out
Photography | Adam Washington Styling | Victor Lopez
shirt BURBERRY, pants HELMUT LANG, shoes JW ANDERSON
pants VALENTINO
shirt BURBERRY, sweatshirt LACOSTE, pants VALENTINO, hatDANIEL W FLETCHER, belt CHANEL
shirt MAX N’ CHESTER, underwear BALMAIN
Photographer: Adam Washiongton (@adamjwashington)
Stylist: Victor Lopez (@styledbyvictorlopez)
Model: Jered Erlanger (@jerederlanger)
shirt LACOSTE, pants VALENTINO, shoes JW ANDERSON, bag PRADA
Flower Market
Flower Market
Photography by Guille Sánchez
top MOZH MOZH
(left) total look MOZH MOZH (right) total look MOZH MOZH
(left) top ESCVDO, pants SASTRE (right) on both boys_top ANAYA ULLOA, pants NIM
(left) shirt MOZH MOZH, blazer & pants SASTRE (right) total ANAYA ULLOA
(left) tank top MOZH MOZH, pants NIM (right) total ANAYA ULLOA
on both boys_total look ANAYA ULLOA
Togetherness
“I really wanted to show love in its many shapes and forms. I think what the world is missing so much is that feeling of connection between their family and loved ones. So many of us have been either separated or lost people close to us since the pandemic started (myself included) and we are all longing for that feeling of personal connection and “togetherness”.
Matthew Brookes is pleased to announce his latest exhibition titled Togetherness. With the world thrown into disarray in the wee stages of 2020, human connection has never been more valued than it is today. Togetherness is a celebration of life and love in its many forms. Between mothers, brothers, sisters and lovers, this exhibition covers the wide spectrum of relationships in which humanity is ultimately borne. Having moved to Los Angeles by way of Paris in early 2021, Matthew Brookes was struck by the innate beauty and interconnection of the residents of Venice Beach. A spirit long adored by people far and wide, this exhibition brings to light the importance of not only relationship, but environment, and how integrating oneself into a community can lead to the creation of art, friendship, and ultimately: love.
This project started out as a portrait project but what I realized very quickly is how much people wanted to be photographed with people that they loved – the result was quite profound and touching. As I was shooting I would show the subjects their portraits and they were getting very emotional. The session would start by me saying “Give each other a hug.” and we would continue from there. It was almost like a therapy session where people could express their feelings for one another – whether the relationship was family, friendship or lovers, each session got better and better.
I was living on the beach so we shot at magic hour as the sun was setting. The atmosphere on the beach was really quiet and beautiful. The whole experience seemed to be healing for everyone involved. We are aiming to raise money for homeless children in Venice Beach so any profits from the exhibition will go to a charity in Venice Beach called SPY (Safe Place for Youth).”
Matthew Brookes likes to find the emotion in his subjects before he photographs them because for him it’s as much about what he feels when they are in front his lens as to what he sees. Its about scratching below the surface and finding the real person in each portrait he creates, rather than the image the subject might feel they should project. Born in England, raised in South Africa, it was in Paris that Brookes first discovered his passion for photography. The allure of the city had a profound influence on his aesthetic as a photographer. Aside from working with celebrities and models Brookes also enjoys photographing sports men and women and dancers as he is fascinated in the human form and movement. He divides his time between Paris and New York.
Under My Skin
UNDER MY SKIN
by KCDUBBICK
We live in a hybrid world: the boundaries of our digital and analogue existences are increasingly eroding and beginning to merge. Our research aims to transgress analogue and digital boundaries, and to question what the tensions of those two parts can play.
In the project “UNDER MY SKIN”, we used infrared photography to recreate physical bodies as digital prints and thereby examine how the boarders between analogue and digital worlds are increasingly blurred.
This editorial was created in collaboration with Berlin based photographer Amely Sommer. Her work is about finding images that are in between: between surface and underground, inside and outside, presence and absence, being and non-being. She is using different kinds of media to manipulate the images which allow her to visualize her own imaginative journey. We gave her the
freedom to reinterpret UNDER MY SKIN through her visual language.
KCDUBBICK is a sister designer duo based in Berlin. Cissel Dubbick is a recent graduate from the Weißensee academy of arts in Berlin and Katharina Dubbick specialized in Womenswear Knitwear at Royal College of Arts in London. KCDUBBICK was born in 2021 and has just launched its new collection UNDER MY SKIN.
Photographer: Amely Sommer (@amelysommer)
Designers: Katharina Dubbick (@katharinadubbick), Cissel Dubbick (@cissel_d)
Models: Matilde (@crispedflour), Cissel Dubbick
Gnossiennes
Videography & Fashion: Cathy Du (@cathy_moya)
Hair & Makeup: Du Huijun (@duhuijun)
Production: MOYA Studio (@moyastudio1)
Videography Assistant: Patrick Li (@patrick_li)
Model: Brooklyn Morris (@brooklyn__morris__) @Want MGMT