Each Man Kills the Things He Loves

Meticulously crafted ensembles flawlessly blended with the venue, as delicate silhouettes seamlessly created strong looks. Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show was an exceptional showcase of timeless yet cutting-edge ensembles. Presented at the architectural masterpiece, the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin, and under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the collection, titled “Each Man Kills the Things He Loves,” embraced an androgynous aesthetic while exuding sensuality.

Sophisticated, progressist, sexy and not afraid to show some shoulders is the Saint Laurent Man. While showing off his figure he struts confidently the runway and blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity. Showcasing figure-hugging silhouettes, the garments embody the essence of Saint Laurent, while recreating some of the mythic characters in Rainer Werner Fassbinder films, Querelle and Le Droit du Plus Fort.

The show is a harmonious balance of opposite elements. Feminine one-shoulder tops merge with masculine high-waisted pants, creating a captivating contrast. The ethereal delicacy of sheer chiffon fabric juxtaposes with the structured volume of tuxedo jackets, evoking a striking balance. Furthermore, the romantic charm of polka dot tops diverges from the audacious boldness of chunky-heeled boots. Altogether, the show was and opulent display of progressive values and subverted traditions.

Designed as an extension of the womenswear collection, the pieces draw clear inspiration from women’s silhouettes. The inclusion of high-collared shirts, tank tops with plunging décolletés, and sarongs elegantly tied around the neck add a captivating touch of sensuality. while meticulous, sharp tailoring and fluid volumes create a romantic and fresh feeling.

Exquisite textiles accentuated the opulent atmosphere of the collection. Featuring a diverse range from satin to patent leather, jersey, and mousseline, the different textures provided a visually captivating and sensory experience. Playfully adding to the allure, leopard spots adorned some of the patterns, while the iconic Saint Laurent black prevailed throughout the collection in a variety of shades.

The tailoring of the collection, characterized by broad shoulders and tapered legs, showcased Saint Laurent’s expertise, mastery of shapes, and bold fashion sensibility. Classic bow ties, traditionally associated with formalwear, received a fresh twist as they were presented in pristine white, adding a contemporary edge to this timeless accessory.

The choice of venue for the show added an extra layer of significance to the collection. designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in 1968, the Neue Nationalgalerie boasts a steel roof that complements the collection’s sleek and contemporary aesthetic. Temporary insertions enhanced the space with a powerful light flooding the venue, turning it into a temple of light.

Vaccarello’s approach is known to be strong and radical. The result, a collection that exuded freshness, elegance, and intrepidness—a true ode to sensuality and androgynous chic.